Por Vocação » Things we love

“The Miracle” Video

Por Vocação — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 11:49:26 +0000

Menswear is a serious deal and we tend to take it like that (or else we wouldn’t be in the business) but we still enjoy when people are not so stiff about it. That is the case of Alex Wilcox, owner of New York bespoke retailer Lord Willy’s (a playful name in itself) who holds up to his British witty background. To promote his shop and custom-made service, Alex and his film director friend Julian Pugsley came up with the idea for a humorous short movie revolving the notion of what a transformation a good suit can operate. Alex himself features in the movie, as the classy looking dude in the suit stylishly cruising the streets, while the homeless guy is a song writer found by Pugsley. At the end, we are left with the impression that clothes do make the man. The question on the other hand might be; Was he better off before?!?
Up to you to decide…

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at Raf Simons, Paris

Por Vocação — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 15:27:58 +0000

Continuing the coverage of our Paris Fashion Week appointments and events, we offer you a comprehensive visit to the Raf Simons showroom, highlighting some of the most relevant features from the AW12 collection. For AW12 Raf Simons plays with proportions, with oversized shirts worn as jackets over skinny shorts. Strands of colored hair were found attached to the collar of knits and bright colored fur featured on the back of long jackets. The signature running sneakers introduced a couple of seasons ago make a comeback, now in different colors and completed with a new hi-top version. The accessories range seems to also be revamped, with the introduction of several necklaces, key holders and the season’s novelty hood shaped caps. Take the tour, below…

A view on the warehouse showroom always neatly decorated with mid century furniture.

One of the colorful options for the knits and the new shape caps.

The hair strand attached to the knit’s back.

The silhouette Raf is going for this new season, with overly proportioned shirts worn as outer pieces and dressed over
narrow tailored shorts. On the back rack, some of the pieces from the 1995 line.

Long coats with bold color furred backs.

The runway look book with all the pieces matched together and some head shots of the models.

We could also see ombré effects taken to a new level on some of the knits.

The accessories range featuring the signature hair strands and some new necklaces, key holders and painted chains.

A more classic section with the formal shoes, pin dot silk ties and fur covered belts.

The modernist Pierre Jeanneret chairs, displaying Raf’s love for furniture design, his original academic formation.

Oversized shirts with floral prints and solid color patterned knits.

A couple of buyers having fun while shooting the shorts, and the new shape caps up close.

The sneaker line will be available in dark colors now with a hi-top variation.

A final view from the other end of the showroom and it’s a wrap.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at Adam Kimmel, Paris

Por Vocação — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:14:17 +0000

Showing you the coverage of our showroom visit to Adam Kimmel is definitely a great way to start off the week. With a collection inspired by aviation and american secret air base Area 51, the clothes look fantastic as ever with fighter pilot uniforms all around but always with a strong drive for special everyday clothes made from refined fabrics and superior cuts.

The mood board for the collection, with pics from fighter aircrafts, air force pilots, military installations, the Nevada desert
and some UFO’s to the mix.

The fighter pilot helmet used for the runway show sitting on the table alongside the new themed boots and socks.

The house model dressed in one of the fighter pilot suits, made from soft wool twill fabric.

A scarf bearing a nighthawk stealth fighter print on the left, and a view on the busy room.

The extensive footwear range and the UFO tee. All the t-shirts from this collection, are made in Portugal. We’re proud!

Another of the fighter pilot suits, this time made from a technical fabric and in a blue color scale. Blue was one of the colors
that otherwise dominated the collection, along with greys and blacks.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at Acne, Paris

Por Vocação — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 18:24:48 +0000

Acne’s AW12 collection, that first revolved around the idea of imitation with materials appearing to be something they are not, like fake fur, vinyl or polyester, turned out to be about love and its tribulations. An heart motif could be found everywhere this season, wether printed in shirts, wind breakers and blazers or patched on sweaters. Fabric and silhouette wise, there were some unexpected combinations, with the traditional mixed with the technical, tailoring combined with sportswear and abundant layering. The color palette was muted and dark, highlighted by bright reds, blues and clean white, as an analogy to love itself. We headed over to the showroom to find out more.

As always, we are welcomed with flowers, fruit water and sweets.

The new style Drifter jacket dressed on the house model.

The heart motif printed on a windbreaker and including some variations, with full, broken and arrowed hearts.

And also on a boiled wool blazer. Sweet!

An Harris tweed blazer over a quilted polyester jacket. Great combo.

The new footwear range featuring shinny and patent leathers over rubber soles.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… Levi’s Made & Crafted, Paris

Por Vocação — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 15:07:44 +0000

One of the new brands we’re introducing in the upcoming SS12 season is Levi’s Made & Crafted. Although they were at Capsule, we figured we might as well go down to their showroom to have a better look at the new pieces and make our order for AW12. As before, the collection is filled with colors and patterns that run all over the knitwear, t-shirts and chinos, setting up the brand’s vibrant and appealing identity.

A rack filled with nice pieces and already missing some that we were taking for our selection.

Olivier is a really nice guy and was always there for us throughout our order.

Native american motifs were present in some of the pieces, like this strong v-neck knit that we just had to pick.

Another one of our options was this largely patterned shawl collar off-white knit. Its not always easy to make a white piece
work but these guys nailed it.

Some of the colorful tees and chinos spread over the floor. Yes, they also have jeans.

A final view on the warehouse room were the AW12 was showcased, with some of the pieces hanging from the brand’s
custom built wood panel displays.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at the Margiela presentation, Paris

Por Vocação — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 17:54:58 +0000

Maison Martin Margiela showcased the AW12 collection at the Couvent des Cordeliers, a classified historical monument at the
6th arrondissement in the left bank of the Seine.

The crowd gathering outside and some of the building’s beautiful large gothic windows. Lab coat alert!

Stylish dudes of different genres converged.

Some of the most representative pieces from the AW12 collection were displayed behind glass panels at the near 1000 square
meters of the convent’s main hall. Here, an Artisanal garbage bag coat with detachable hood and behind, some Replica jackets
made from 100% camel hair.

Signature golden boots and a denim boiler suit composed of separate detachable garments put together by a system of zips.

Sheepskin classic garments and accessories with details shaved into the fur in order to create a trompe-l’oeil effect.

A side view on the all shoe-sole rubber footwear range. Why is it that, no one thought of this before?!? Genious.

The new threaded sole featured over the classic shoe styles and some of the fur lined pieces in the background.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… Alyssa Norton, Paris

Por Vocação — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 14:44:52 +0000

Alyssa Norton pieces are usually shown at the Valerie Demure Showroom along with other designers. This time though,
the guys joined forces with another showroom and showcased their stuff together at a different location.

Andrew was busy so it gave us some time to browse around the other brands.

Here’s the wooden display cabinet that houses Alyssa’s collections. Let’s start opening some drawers to see what’s new.

Some pieces from our selection for AW12.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… Adam Kimmel X Carhartt, Paris

Por Vocação — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 12:39:28 +0000

Now going for their third collection, the Adam Kimmel collaboration with american workwear powerhouse Carhartt continues to
deliver straight to the point no fuss clothing with improved cuts and fabrics, all under the Kimmel identity and enjoying Carhartt’s
quality construction. While visiting the showroom, we took a couple of shots to some of the new styles.

We caught up with our friend Willy, who regularly models for Adam, while new girl Marissa helped us go through the new stuff.

A basic denim shirt over some slim fit cotton pants.

A new version of the long collar plaid flannel shirt, this time in black.

Willy giving us some model attitude.

Finally, a wool zipped short jacket with patch pockets. Clean and simple.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at Tranoi, Paris

Por Vocação — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 19:46:35 +0000

The other significant men’s trade show in Paris Fashion Week is Tranoi. Over 120 new and established designers show their
new stuff here so we are talking big.

An outside view of the beautiful Palais de La Bourse where the trade show is usually held.

Although not as packed as Capsule, there was some action going on and, most importantly, buyers placing their orders.

Our good friend Riccardo Goti saluting us from his stand as we arrive.

Some of his new pieces mixed with carefully selected display items.

It was his 40th birthday so we stopped to buy some champagne, cupcakes and candles on our way to Tranoi and, over an
improvised cake, we sang Tanti Auguri a Te.

Moving on, to meet with Alex from Mad et Len, standing in front of the new compelling cabinet displays. He complimented us
on our Windows and told us how much of a fan of our shop he is. Thank you Alex, we also love your stuff, you know that.

The stand was quite busy with people unable to resist the Mad et Len effect.

Mensweek Diaries AW12… at Capsule and MAN, Paris

Por Vocação — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 17:43:54 +0000

In the midst of showrooms and appointments, there are three main go to places in Paris men’s fashion week – Capsule, Tranoi and from now on, MAN. Capsule is known to be the starting point for brands who are first reaching the market, while MAN is a new men’s trade show that comes as a substitute of the now extinguished Rendez-Vous. Let’s start with these two and talk about Tranoi in the next blog post.

The garage entry to Capsule.

A view on one of the large spaces that houses the trade show.

Ground floor was busy as ever and (despite the feeble economic scenario that currently sweeps Europe) with an overgrowing
need for the brands showcased there. A good sign for the economy perhaps… let’s hope so.

Top floor view, with people behind each brand giving their very best to attract buyers. Let’s not forget this is business and
that sales done here are often crucial to a brand’s continuity, development and vitality.

The main entry at MAN.

A sign with the list of this edition’s featured brands, including some surprises.

One of the nicest things about our visit to MAN was to find a new portuguese brand showing their stuff there, which is rare.
LA PAZ is a new brand from Porto with a first collection inspired by portuguese fishermen. The brand’s catalogue box was
also a good surprise, featuring a custom made can of sardines. Here we see André and Zé Miguel from LA PAZ who also told
us they had recently been to NY and that sales were good. Congrats guys, we wish you the best of luck!