A menswear store under the influence

Second day in Milan, our first appointment in the morning was at Tonello. The work process here is very different than with the other brands we work, more close to bespoke tailoring. There are a few sample styles made in order to decide on the shapes we like the most, and then we have to literally dig among the hundreds of fabric samples, organized by suits, blazers, shirts, trousers, you name it… It’s a lot of work and it can at times be quite confusing as, with so many options available, our decision is sometimes made upon the feeling that a little piece of cloth is giving us at the time. Besides that, it is also a good challenge and we end up with a very personal and bespoke selection.

Giorgio, our savvy guide in the world of amazing fabric samples, getting ready to start. Next, a pair of colorful shorts that immediately caught our eye. It’s nice to see some color splashes now and then, in an otherwise more understated palette of blues, greys or blacks.

A few samples spread on top of the table and on the floor, just to give you an idea on some of the options available. We could be here all day… unfortunately, there’s no time, we have to wrap things up as there’s other places we need to be and other brands we need to check.

A general view of the room with a nice white chandelier hanging above our heads and some pretty original tables made from industrial wooden cable reels. On the left, a rack with a previous selection Giorgio made for us.

Two other different perspectives from the room and a close up on the diversity of the styles and color tones hanging on the wall racks.

Time to introduce the new range of scents from extraordinary perfume house Mad et Len. All the way down from the south of France, the brand’s name derives from Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past (Madeleine) and to the sensory memory set off by smell, touch and sight. We caught with them at Pitti, where they were presenting their fragrances for the first time and the crowd was going crazy about their stuff. They do pull off an interesting new approach to perfume making with a kind of old world panache that some thought was forever gone.
This old style sense of hand made perfume making is quite unique and also extends to home fragrances and candles with all scents being named after their main ingredients and using only basic raw materials. Intensely rich fragrances range from deep Patchouli or Black Afghan to fresh Fleur d’Oranger. Candles are crafted with hand poured essential oil wax, while potpourri uses lava rocks and ambar resin embedded with truly compelling smells. Containers are made from hand hammered wrought steel, copper and black apothecary style glass and stored inside refined hand made packaging. Well, it seems like we got a little carried away about the details back there but these amazing products are well worth it and definitely ones not to miss…

Check out Mad et Len here.

We have now left Florence behind, after some incredible days at Pitti Uomo. Already in Milan, our first focus was at the Porta Romana district where there are several diffusion showrooms, that we visited in the morning. After lunch, we were awaited by the two delightful Barbaras at Giorgio Brato aka The Leather Wizard ; )

Next to the courtyard, Barbara Cavalli talking to a client, hand on the hip, although she’s not angry… Some bags on display at the entrance area. Across the doors to the main room, we could already hear the other Barbara laughing, setting the mood for a joyful afternoon.

Barbara Lido, the other half of the Yellow Team (they were both wearing yellow tops), helping some costumers with their order. For SS12, Giorgio Brato is more into light colors like off white, natural or sand, also using micro perforated leathers, at times solid or with overprints.

The inner patio and someone who didn’t want her identity revealed (we can only wonder why…) and some cool looking chairs, belonging to the same old theatre of the one’s we have at the shop. No, we didn’t met Giorgio at the antiques store, if that’s what you’re thinking… : ))

The brand’s footwear range area, looking more packed than ever. Seems like Giorgio is ready to take the sidewalks by storm… A look at the street window as we were already going away.

This is our last post from Pitti Uomo and we’ll soon be reporting you the latest from Milan’s fashion week. We close our tour at Pitti with one of our favorite italian brands, Boglioli. This sartorial inclined, family run company has been making the most incredible unstructured blazer jackets for as long as we can remember and are one of Italy’s major players in the field. Also enjoying a vast worldwide recognition, Japan is one of their top markets since the brand’s high quality, expertise and detailing are much appreciated out there.
Its almost a common saying that “No one makes an unstructured jacket like Boglioli”. We’re just glad to have them on board.

An half lit Gigi Boglioli, family member and the brand’s designer, sporting his unlaced n.d.c. plims while standing next to the SS12 collection key blazers. Next, the guy in the beige trousers is Gianluca, Boglioli sales manager and our good friend from unforgettable dinner parties and endless talks about traveling and the joyful wonders of the internet world ; )…

A close shot on one of the new styles for SS12, made from a certain kind of secret raw material that makes it light, light, light…
Washed tinto in capo all the way… The best!

A growing phenomena surrounding fashion fairs is the huge number of bloggers and street photographers with camera in hand, ready to take the shot. We even spotted Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist (without Garance), having a nice chat with fellow bloggers.

Time to spruce up as fashion fairs are also an opportunity to show individual style and personality. Below are some of the contenders.

Buttero is one of those brands we just couldn’t miss at Pitti. They were in an area called Touch, located at the Sale della Ronda pavilion. Once we got there, they happily saluted us for the work we have been doing for the brand and some new exciting ideas started to pop out. Expect some exclusive partnerships in the near future…

Another resting space under a nice half shade effect provided by a kind of military net. Buttero was at the back pavilion. Next, the Buttero team – the brand’s main men Luca and Maurizio, both from “la famiglia” and the charming Julia.

The natural balance of the new SS12 models and the simple beauty of a wood scrap decor inside an off white tent. Maurizio explaining a thing or two about the premium quality, highly crafted natural products the brand has to offer.

Make way for white zig zag soles, everyday crepe sole shoes and some cool looking suede hi-tops.

Scott Sternberg’s Band Of Outsiders was the special guest designer brand at Pitti this year, meaning that, on top of other things, it had its own show on the evening of the first day. Despite being on their debut season at Pitti Uomo, they had the honor to be invited to do a catwalk presentation and to enroll the ever growing list of fashion designers which, year after year, feature on this special event. Big names like Raf Simons, Neil Barrett, Jil Sander or Gareth Pugh are already amongst the chosen ones. Expectation was rising…

Still at the fair, the collection was being showcased at a stage like platform to which we had to walk up a few stairs. The mood reminded us of Twin Peaks, with a spotlight pointed at a big red velvet curtain, already anticipating something big for the following evening.

With a microfone stand and a high stool at center stage, visitors were surprised by the sound coming out of a portable tape recorder, from which some stand up comedy actor was continuously pitching his repertoire. On the backdrop, the brand’s loyal staff were fully at work.

Scott and his gang are real deal cookie lovers, with their own blog dedicated to the subject so, it came as no surprise that there was a cookie jar on stage, on top of a second stool and next to a staff member, wearing a really nice stripped t-shirt from the SS11 season.

A top view on the colorful SS12 styles hanging on the racks and some even bolder colors and finishes for the new topsiders.

We haven’t pointed it out yet but, Pitti Uomo is held at an old fortress called Fortezza da Basso, from which the surrounding wall is still standing. Inside these walls, there’s a series of buildings and pavilions that assign the brands in a clear and coherent way. One of the most interesting is without a doubt, the L’Altro Uomo space located inside the Arsenale pavilion where we went to check out Our Legacy, ts(s) and Linda Farrow among others.

Sitting down, the always elegant and extremely focused Jockum from Our Legacy. Some guys already doing their thing at documenting the new pieces and a nice floral print shirt at foreground. Another nice print shirt for SS12, in a collection inspired by artists. Looking good…

View from outside the My Factory building, where Adam KimmelXCarhartt was. Next to the building, a chill out space where some visitors take a rest for a little and call home. Others prefer to make their special shaded appearance on our photos… ; )

At Linda Farrow – Simon, catching up with his bbm’s and an overview of the SS12 shades. Tracy, pleasantly overlooking some costumers while they check some of the house’s new creations. Over at the back, the famous LindaFarrowXJeremy Scott Mickey sunglasses.

ts(s) assistant Kotaro Yasu and designer Takuji Suzuki where waiting to show us a really nice collection with lots of light fabrics like pure silks and cotton/silk blends for some of the shirts and blazers. Surprisingly detailed styles as always and a nice color palette too.

9 a.m. and here we are at Pitti, and here are also the first pics from the always busy fair. In these last few years, fashion bloggers have taken over the trade fair always on the look out for the most stylish boys and girls that they’ll later feature on their blogs.

Tommy Ton from Jak & Jil, is one of the world’s most credited and here he is, in his hunter like position, ready to aim for the perfect shot.

On the first day, and before we enter, we have to sign up. It runs pretty smooth when you already have an invitation. If not, dozens of friendly Italian girls await us at the registration desk. Recently, it is also possible to take an online fair tour at e-pitti online showroom.

Another view of the luminous reception lobby and a poster with this year’s Pitti image. Free wi-fi, time to get those emails in order…

First stop, Adam KimmelXCarhartt to check out the new clothes and say hello to our good friend Rafael. With the first drop of the
AW11 collection almost ready to arrive at the store, we couldn’t wait to browse among the SS12 styles.

The space was crowded with Rafael always on the job, taking good care of his costumers. A small but strong identity collection, revisiting the iconic American brand’s universe and presenting some nice light colors for Summer.

Starting today and on an almost daily basis (as time will let us/all constraints aside) we will be showing our routine and previewing what’s ahead for Spring Summer 2012.
These are the first pics upon our arrival at Florence. We’re here to visit the biggest menswear trade show in the world, Pitti Uomo. After a day traveling, it sure feels good to arrive to the nice place where we always stay. During Pitti, it can be quite hard to find a place to stay as the city is literally bursting with fashion people. This secluded place is a well kept secret, run by nuns (yes you’ve read it right), ten minutes walk from the city center and surrounded by trees in a peaceful environment – the ideal place for us and a great way to start our journey.

Main street entrance and the high fenced outside walls with lion figures on top. Already sounds promising…

At the reception desk, our bags are already being taken care of.

It’s time to chill a little in the beautiful gardens surrounding the house. An oratory spot with a holy figure.

Another view on the main building. Good thing we remembered to pack that botanics book, last minute… ; )

We will soon be starting our buying trips to Milan and Paris for the SS12 collections. We promise to keep you updated on everything that is going on, here at the blog features and also at our facebook page. Meanwhile, here’s a few shots from our last trip to the Paul Smith showroom in Paris and some of the AW11 styles that should be dropping at the store anytime now.

Street sign and door entrance. The colorful stairway that leads to the main showroom space, très Paul Smith…

House model Stephane showing off some of our outerwear pics for next season. We heard gunmetal grey is gonna be big this AW… ; )

A look at the rack showing the Paul Smith Red Ear range and a close up on a framed letter from designer and illustrator Keiko Morimoto.

Here’s some new single shots of our Green Window. This was the first outcome of the collaboration work that lead to our current window display. These new isolated shots show more in detail the product itself allowing to focus on the vegetable/natural aspect of it. As a quick reminder, this whole concept started after the basic idea that all Buttero footwear is made from vegetable tanned leathers (the most eco and environmentally friendly available).

Let the air flow in on the hot Summer days ahead, with these new bermuda shorts and jogging style pants from Margiela. Being made from a cupro and cotton mix, the shorts are very light and fresh. The trousers, on the other hand, are made in a beautiful double face cotton, dark indigo on the outside and pinstripe on reverse which makes them ideal for a roll up. Featuring a very loose and fluid fit, both have an elasticized waist together with a drawstring closure and two side pockets. Match these with some n.d.c. espadrilles and you’ll be good to go.

With the Roland Garros tennis tournament now reaching its peak, we felt it was time to let this Found Photo out of the box and share it with you all. The handwritten date on the back reads Juillet 1926 indicating that it was taken somewhere in France. About the photo itself and besides the obvious impeccable apparel, our guess is they where playing mixed doubles. The question is,… who was the third guy on the back playing with? Clues anyone?!…