A menswear store under the influence

Ok, now definitely on our first report from Paris, at the Margiela headquarters for our AW12 selection.

Arriving at the showroom and already checking out the signature pieces from the runway show, made from lightweight technical
fabrics, on a take on garbage bags.

An interesting knitted wool duffle coat.

This time, our designated helper at Margiela was Monsieur Odilon. Here he is, helping us with our clothing order.

Another play on the duffle, this time on a shorter wool plaid version.

Photos from the AW12 look book spread over one of the tables for viewing.

The signature white mannequins over a white wall and a window view to the beautiful church across the street.

One of the reversible shirts from our selection, plaid cotton on one side and denim on the other. More of the garbage bag
inspired pieces in the background.

As it turns out, and while our boss and overall head buyer was hard working in the backstage of the Paris Fashion Shows for some new features, we were having a bit of trouble in synching files back with the office. As a result, there were some pics from our last visit to Tonello in Milan that were left out, before we came to Paris. Here they are now.

The showroom when we first arrived, with some buyers considering their options.

Some nice displays housing the new styles.

A short hooded jacket from the AW12 collection.

Enough browsing. Time to start get those fabrics sorted out. As usual, we need someone to help us as there are so many
fabric samples and color combinations for each style.

Options for the long jacket.

Tonello also had some new wool and alpaca knitwear featured in basic colors that we liked.

Accessories like bow ties and scarves, on display near the hand painted glass windows.

A group shot of the Tonello girls that assisted us on our selection.

Finishing our week journey in Milan, we stop over at the Boglioli showroom to get to know the collection more in detail and make our selection for AW12. We really enjoy hanging out over there and always end up staying more time than we need, learning about the cuts,
the fabrics and finishing techniques.

The knitwear, beanies and jacket you see here undergo an enzyme treatment to get the so called “frost” look.

These jackets are hand painted after they’re made, using some kind of paint roller, believe it or not.

The fabric on some of the pieces on the left rack, have the so called “bouclé” treatment, which means that after the fabric
is made, it is treated in order to create small loops and knots while becoming spongy and very soft to the touch.

Well, enough about the technical stuff, let’s enjoy the rest of the appointment to look around and make our season picks.
Speaking of which, here’s some over here.

Boglioli is also big in places like Japan or China, no wonder there’s so many asian buyers each time we’re here.

The showrooms’s large windows overlooking the street, the classic Vespa and some weekend bags. For us, it’s time to leave
and say goodbye to Milan. Flying to Paris later, just in time for the Adam Kimmel show. Ciao!

Moving on to footwear and accessories, it was so chilly at the garage where they were displayed, that Stefano was wearing
a Paul Smith polka dot throw blanket to stay warm.

Lots of new stuff regarding the footwear range, with mixed colors and patterns, a new crepe sole and some high shine.



And a slightly new shape and finishes on the chunky brogue department.

Croco prints are ones to watch next AW12.

As usual, plenty of good options to fill your accessories drawer.

Let’s wrap it up. Our order all written down and signed. Werk!

At Paul Smith, our visit to the three storey showroom starts at ground floor, with the mainline collection on the racks and the
mannequins dressed with some of the looks that will appear in the Paris runway show on Sunday.

Among the lots of fantastic fabrics and knock out prints, this shark tooth one was the coolest.

Nadine is always there to watch our backs, here accompanied by Simon who’s in charge of the mainline sales.

Moving up, the light installations hanging from the third floor ceiling give a nice warm touch to the place.

Fair isle is all over the knitwear for AW12, whether in detail or in full.

Time to choose some shirts and jackets from the PS line. Giorgio gives us some attitude for the pic.

The American staff, full at work.

Another day in Milan and we move forward on our AW12 fashion schedule to visit the Band Of Outsiders showroom. The collection features a lot of dusty colors topped off by rustic color highlights and Oaxacan blanket motifs and embroideries. Inspiration has come from Scott Sternberg‘s recent trip to Mexico City and the mix between urban environments and western landscapes.

For starters, the usual color base scheme, with navy blues and greens always there.

In tune with the season’s mood, this colorful knit jacket is totally hand made with wool fibers coming from Peru.

A view of the room, with a giant signature polaroid from the AW11 look book, that featured actors Tom Felton and
Rupert Grint and was shot at The Magic Castle in LA.

A wide selection of ties, in multiple colors and patterns and some of the brand’s knitted benies.

On the right, we can clearly see the dusty colors and rusty tones we talked about earlier.

Another one of the amazing wool jackets that underline the collection’s inspiration.

The toggle coat has become one of Band Of Outsiders key pieces throughout the AW collections. This one features the usual
rope and toggle closure but also an off centre zip.

Wool and alpaca fingerless gloves, good to keep the hands warm while working those Ipad’s.

Second run at White trade show, mainly to let you know about Boglioli’s special feature at the event, added by a little something about the Basement area. Having already covered the brand’s Blue from Japan project, it’s now time to let you in a little more on the collaboration with Japanese ts(s) designer Takuji Suzuki. Together, they’ve come up with a five piece outerwear collection, combining Boglioli’s fabric research and experience with Takuji’s singular designs.

Boglioli’s special area was upstairs.

Some of the brand’s jackets from the Blue project were featured on a balcony overlooking the main area.

Over at the right side, we could see Takuji Suzuki’s designs hanging on display.

Here we see Carlo from Boglioli and some more jackets on display near the back wall.

One of the special highlights was this washed wool asymmetric toggle coat. Certainly something to look for forward to.

Going down to the Basement area, to meet some of the more alternative designers and hopefully some friends.

Chaco, from Parisian Showroom Romeo was here, showing swedish brand Obscur, created by the talented young designer
and over all cool guy Richard Söderberg. Time to take a break and get our minds off the business for a while.

Next up while in Milan, we headed up for the White trade show. Besides checking out the new designers showing at the Inside area and the more experimental brands at Basement, there were two main reasons why we were there, Boglioli and Tonello. The two italian brands were among this edition’s main guests, being specially featured and provided with exclusive display areas. Let’s start…

A view on the buyers entrance.

The Inside area is an open space hallway where the most younger brands get their chance to be known.

A view on one of the installations on display at the show, by italian designer Erika Calesini.

The exclusive Tonello area featured some lounging space with artificial fireplace at the middle.

A foreword on Tonello as we enter the labyrinthic space were some of the brand’s key pieces were on show. Please read.

A man’s gotta eat.

On our second meeting in Milan, we went to see Barena, true brand du jour, at the Marco Rigoni Showroom. There, with the help of Marco himself and the pleasing Sonia we made our selection for AW12. Remember, we’re introducing Barena already this SS12 so, keep an eye on the online shop for it.

Marco (in green) is the real deal salesperson, in a good way, and quite a funny guy. He is also an inveterate smoker,
popping three packs of Malboros, every day. Yaiks!…

Some of the jackets that made it into our selection included the ones below, made from soft knitted wool.

Here’s Sonia, taking a break and observing Marco while he tries one of the jackets. The cigarette pack is always close.

The office’s toy collection and a look out the window.

The brand’s logo features a venetian gondolier. Get this one into you image memory bank so you’ll recognize it later.

To get a close feel on the fabrics and instead of the traditional samples, Barena gives us gloves to put on.

Next day, our early appointment was at ts(s) to check out the brand’s upcoming styles for AW12. Takuji Suzuki brings us washed dyed denims and soft touch worsted wools mixed with technical fabrics. As usual, the charming Cinzia, guided us trough the collection.

A view of the showroom with the denims at the front and some plaid at the back.

Some jackets feature an oversized inner lining which runs down from the hemline and cuffs.

One of our favorite jacket options featured in the AW12 lookbook. This one ends as a shirt.

The new footwear range featuring brogue style wool uppers and rubber soles next to a toad, for good luck.